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View Full Version : SPRING CLEANING TIME is here again!


dbarrow
04-01-2006, 01:10 PM
Just a reminder!
The change to Daylight Savings Time is a reminder that it's time to clean your computer if you have not done it since fall.

reprint from 2005:

Spring cleaning time is here again!
Time to tackle one chore you really need to get around to if you want your machine to continue to live.

Your computer is cooled by fans constantly moving a fairly large volume of air through the case. Think of it as a low speed Hoover vacuum or an air purifier with your case as the collection canister. More than that, using the same principles applied by many air purifiers, electrostatic charges condense and collect dust and pollutants … onto your sensitive electronic parts. Just as you have to clean out your room air purifier and change the filters, or empty the canister in your vacuum, doing the same with the inside of your computer is a mandatory chore at least twice a year if you wish it to survive.

My recent debacle with a failed PSU and a dead machine was more than proof positive that this is something you can’t put off or ignore. As soon as I prepared the machine for surgery and opened the case, I realized that chore #1 before I even started on the main problem was going to be a complete and thorough house cleaning. Looking more like an exotic deep ocean seascape, my first impression was there are life forms growing in there and they are not electronic or silicon based! Long wisps and strands of dust bunnies floated and hung like moss on a Magnolia tree. Coral reefs of accumulated grime had taken over surfaces of my circuit boards making them unrecognizable. Fans no longer pumping air had turned into blenders churning away at a soupy mixture of dust and dirt.


The dangers

Besides blocking vital air flow, growing dust bunnies pose a real risk of raising temperatures as a good layer of dust and dirt can become a great insulator. For sensitive electronic parts that need to dispel their heat to the air, this layer of insulation can quickly lead to premature failure. Worse yet, fire! A work partner and I were minding our own business one night when we suddenly notice flames blowing out of the back of a computer that resided under the desk for a few years. After getting it unplugged the flames receded and we opened it up. Nothing was visible inside except one gigantic dust bunny that completely filled the entire inside of the case, a completely solid block of dust and dirt! The power supply must have been the same as that is what went up in smoke and flame. Toasted, blackened and scorched, it still smoldered away. How the machine had managed to run at all is beyond belief. It ended up being consigned to the trash as unsalvageable.

Dust and moisture make a good conductor.
A healthy layer of dust and a humid summer day can spell disaster. You may as well throw a few wads of aluminum foil in the case and take your chances. Computers rely on a very delicate balance of electrical flow and even a few milliamps of current leaking off to someplace it shouldn’t go can ruin your day, and your machine. Delicate tracings on a circuit board are separated by fractions of millimeters and it does not require much of a dirt layer to build bridges between them. Slightly soggy dust can easily short circuit a multitude of parts.

There is really life inside your case!
In the microscopic world of mold, mildew, dust mites and other microscopic organisms you don’t really want to see up close, a healthy layer of dust can become the fertile breeding ground for all sorts of things. Subjected to laboratory analysis, your machine might be condemned as a dangerous bio-hazard! Let these things grow and multiply or migrate their way inside your functional parts, small wonder your cd burner no longer works.

The cleaning process

Rule #1:
Ground yourself and the case!
This often forgotten rule of working on computers can cost you.
There is a very good reason why computer parts come packaged in that foil coated anti-static bag with the warnings printed on it. This is a very real concern on those very dry cool winter days when you can pet the dog or cat and watch them leap when that static lightning bolt pops.
A very minor static discharge can zap a hard drive, CPU, circuit board!
“Gee, it worked before.” Famous last words after putting it all back together and something is dead as a door nail now for no visible reason. One little spark is all it takes!
You can purchase a wrist strap for about $3.00 at Radio Shack or a computer store. This is a worthwhile investment. Wear the strap and attach the alligator clip to the case whenever rooting around inside it. This assures that any electrical differential between your body, clothing, and the outside world is safely discharged to the case. I know of some people who go the extra mile and ground the case by connecting it to the ground wire of an extension cord.

Tools required:

Phillips head screw driver or nut driver suitable for the common size screws on the case.
Toothbrush (new or used)
Half inch wide soft long bristle artist brush
Half inch wide short bristle stiff artist brush,
Can of compressed air
Magnifying glass or reading glasses, for those of us who require them.
Pen and paper, for making notes of things you disconnect and where, for those of us with short term memory problems.
Plastic tray or tub for storing parts and screws in, otherwise, a set of knee pads for when you knock them off the table onto the floor and spend the next hour on your hands and knees looking for them.
Light, either a reading lamp or drop light, large flashlight, you will undoubtedly find a deep dark corner you can’t see and be looking for one of these at some point in time.
Vacuum cleaner with hose and wand
Now, if you want to invest $29.95 or so, there are some nice commercial hand held little vacs with attachments that can be found. I saw one I really should buy at Staples that has nice little soft rubber tips.
Otherwise, a plastic soda straw, the kind that bends, and a piece of duct tape to hold it on the end of the vacuum wand attachment. Note that this works very well and has a great deal of suction.
One tube of CPU thermal paste
Half inch wide masking tape

Step 1.

Start on the outside of the case. The soft bristle brush attachment for the vacuum hose is good for a quick once over around the outside of the case where you will undoubtedly find strands of dust hanging out. Work your way around the outside of the case scrubbing any openings. In particular, you may notice the cd tray or floppy door have what looks like moss hanging out of it. Clean well, we will get to the insides later.
When you get to the back, where all those little plugs are you connect things to, pay a little closer attention as you will likely find them surrounded by and packed full of dirt.
Use your brushes to loosen this grime as you suck it away with the wand. Scrub as necessary being careful not to bend any pins or connectors.

Step 2.

Pop open the case. Locate any screws that hold the cover on and remove. Put them in your tray so you are not on the kitchen floor feeling around for the ones that got away!
Take off the cover. More than likely, the inside of it will have a layer of who knows what growing on it. Take it over to the sink and use a damp sponge, even some soap to scrub it clean then sit aside to dry.
Work around the seams where the cover joins the case. You will probably find a thick film of dirt in these areas.

Step 3.

Fans come first.
Your case fans are usually the most polluted parts often gunked up with a thick layer of dust that can make the blades unrecognizable.
Remove the fans, they will require extra effort.
Now, if like me, you happen to have 6 case fans and an unfathomable tangle of wiring, remembering what plugs into what can become a jigsaw puzzle you really don’t want to tackle. As all wiring harnesses have numerous “spare” or unused plugs, you likely have a wide assortment to choose from. Use a piece of ˝ inch masking tape and number the connector and the fan ends of the plugs before you take them apart. Much easier matching #1 with #1 than trying to figure out which one of ten similar plugs this one came off of!

Plastic can become brittle!
Especially on older fans that have been in the case a long time, the blades are often surprisingly brittle and it takes very little pressure to snap one off!
Work gently with these things or be prepared for a run to the local shop or Staples to buy some new ones.

Fans can be washed!
Maybe not a factory recommended procedure, I find soap and hot water the most effective way to clean a fan using the toothbrush to lightly scrub. Even after being totally immersed in water, I have yet to ruin one by washing it. Do the final rinse with hot water so it evaporates and dries quicker and shake out any water in the hub or motor part.
Set aside to dry thoroughly. Once dry, a short squirt of WD40 into the motor will displace any remaining water and lubricate it for an extended life span.

Spin it!
The bearings go bad and wear out in these things. A noisy or sluggish fan can often be detected by simply spinning it with your finger as you hold it in your hand. It should feel smooth with no rough spots or vibration. You can also hold the vacuum hose near it and get it to spin rapidly. If there is any noise, vibration, or roughness you can feel,
THROW IT OUT.
Replacement fans can be purchased for less than $5.00 so “If in doubt, throw it out”.
As you already have things disassembled already, save yourself a lot of time and work later by replacing any suspect fan that may not have too many miles left in it.

dbarrow
04-01-2006, 01:10 PM
Part 2

Step 4.

Clean the boards
Now is the time for your vacuum and brushes. Start with the most obvious dirt layers and gently loosen them by scrubbing with your soft brush as you keep the end of your vacuum straw or wand close by to suck it up.
DO NOT USE THE HARD PLASTIC WAND!
You don’t ever want to have the end of your suction wand actually touching anything on the circuit boards, particularly a hard plastic wand or the big and unwieldy one that comes with the vacuum attachments. Many of the small parts sticking up from these boards can very easily be snapped off! Knock off a capacitor with a hard plastic wand and you are done for. For these areas, keep sweeping with your soft bristle brush and work the dust and dirt out to an open area where your vacuum can pick it up.
Let gravity assist! If you have to stand the case up and rotate, get it in a position where what you brush off falls to the bottom of the case or some area off the boards where it can be sucked up with the vacuum. For the more stubborn areas, switch to the stiffer short bristle brush but be careful not to use too much force with it.

If necessary, remove video and PCI cards. Especially if there is a big collection of junk residing between them, it may require pulling them out for individual cleaning and to get to the areas of the mobo between the slots.
Remember the pen and paper? If your memory span is short like mine, you may want to write down what came out of where. The vid card is obvious because it goes in the AGP slot but other cards want to go back to the same slot they came out of. Not that the slot order really matters to XP as it assigns IRQs itself, but in some setups, a particular slot and resulting IRQ may be required to avoid conflicts. Put them back where you found them.

If you have to disconnect something to get to the dust ball, mark it! Like we did with the fan wires, use tape to label each end. There can be nothing as frustrating as a bunch of connectors and wires you can’t remember what goes to what. Something as simple as swapping around the IDE connectors can cause you all kinds of problems!
Don’t be afraid to disconnect something if you have to. That gob of dust hiding behind that connector is a potential lethal weapon waiting to kill your machine. Go get it!

Next to your CPU, your video card is the next biggest heat generator in your machine.
It is always advisable to pull this out and thoroughly clean any heat sinks and fan.
This is essential for those high priced cards! If you invested the money on a fancy vid card, this can be a real expense to replace if it fries from an overheat condition.
The little fans on vid cards can often be replaced and are very inexpensive. If you have the slightest doubt, throw it out! Take time to run out to a computer store and find suitable replacement fan(s),

dbarrow
04-01-2006, 01:16 PM
Well, I just completed mine!

While it wasn't as bad as expected, the amount of dog and cat hair that came out from beneath the keys on the keyboard seemed endless.

Fans were a little crusty, but overall, not too bad.

The interior was actually really clean as my fan system seems to blow most of the dust out the front where it collects enmass behind the closed front case door and front grill. Some large hairballs growing in the space betwen the inner and outer case.

And... can anybody explain where 2oz of water vanishes to in a closed and sealed water cooling system? I have yet to figure this one out as it don't leak anywhere!

PeteF
04-01-2006, 07:00 PM
Part 2

Rule #1:
Ground yourself and the case!
This often forgotten rule of working on computers can cost you.
There is a very good reason why computer parts come packaged in that foil coated anti-static bag with the warnings printed on it. This is a very real concern on those very dry cool winter days when you can pet the dog or cat and watch them leap when that static lightning bolt pops.
A very minor static discharge can zap a hard drive, CPU, circuit board!


Great post Doug!
Proper grounding is one thing that many people will tend to ignore
but it's the most important thing because of issues related to ESD
(Electro Static Discharge).

ESD can cause immediate damage, but it can also cause what is called
"latent" damage. Latent damage is partial damage that does not
render your hardware inoperative but weakens it. Then days, weeks
or months later your hardware fails due to normal electrical, thermal,
or mechanical stress, and you'd never know it was the ESD that was
the root cause of the failure.

Yep, I'd go a step further to say you must absolutely ground the case
before you ground yourself to the case. If you keep the power cord
connected and keep the power supply turned off, the power cord will
make the needed ground connection. However, for safety, the best
solution is to have a ground wire clipped to the chassis and power
cord removed.

If you are working on a carpet or any non conductive surface it's
better to remove your footware and work barefoot to avoid static
from generating as you move around. Even certain clothing should
be removed to avoid static charge from building up on your body.

Get the picture? In other words, you don't want to clean your PC
while on a carpet in your sneakers, and wearing a wool sweater.
If you did and you can feel that inital shock as you touched the
case, you just may have caused latent damage to your hardare
if the case was open.

A ground strap is the BEST way to go because it controls the
discharge of static such at it discharges slowly and reduces
the risk of damage to circuitry in close proximity. In other words,
when you discharge yourself quickly there is an ESD field that
surrounds your body and flows outward endangering any sensitive
electronic circuitry in it's path. A ground strap slows that rate
of discharge and reduces the intesity of that ESD field.

Be carefull with vacuuming too because the fast rushing of
of large volumes of air can also cause static buildup & ESD damage.
I much prefer to use those mini attachments that connect to a regular
vaccum hose that are designed for cleaning out computers. They
reduce the amount of air flowing helps reduce the risk of ESD.

Computer vacuum attachment kit...
http://www.vacuumstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=794697020020&Category_Code=CV-ATT

PS: In case you are wondering how I know these things, I used
to build flight qualified electronic components for space satellites
working for RCA/GE/LockheedMartin. I have been through special
training to be ESD certified. Everything I learned there also applies
to sensitive computer circuitry.

Ok to summarize...

* Ensure computer chassis is grounded and power is off.

* Remove footware & clothing that promote static buildup.

* Before you even open the case, ground yourself to the
chassis either by touching & holding onto chassis or better
yet, use a ground strap!

* Vacuum carefully as not to create static buildup and ESD
damage. Use special attachments is possible.

Happy & Safe Cleaning!:bathbaby:

---pete---

dbarrow
04-02-2006, 02:43 PM
part 3

Step 5.

CPU fan and heatsink
The most critical fan in your system sits on your CPU. Any failure or inefficiency here is the one that is really going to cost you with a fried CPU.
Remove it. Take it apart.
While this may sound like a drastic step for those who have never installed or replaced a CPU fan, there is no way you will be able to see a clogged heat sink unless you do.
Cleaning the fan will do no good if the fins on the heatsink are packed solid with gunk.

Work carefully and gently!
The mounting clips on a P4 are probably one of the worst ever designed. The plastic frame the clips attach to can become very brittle and break easily. Finding a replacement may not be all that easy unless your local computer shop has a dead motherboard with a similar part you can buy. Trust me… I just broke one and had to remove the motherboard to screw on a new one and the back plate stiffener that you can’t get to unless you remove the board. Not to mention I was most lucky to find one at a local store or I would have been up the creek without a paddle!

Disassemble the fan and heatsink. Clean the fan and inspect as you did the other fans and set aside to dry. Scrub the heatsink! On close examination, you will more than likely find the fins of the heatsink packed solid with gunk. This has to be cleaned in hot running water and scrubbed with the toothbrush. You may want to send it through a cycle in the dishwasher, which works quite well, but it often requires brushing to get this stuff out from between the fins.

Once again, the price of replacing a CPU is going to cost you a bundle. If you have doubts about the heatsink and fan, chuck it and go buy a replacement. The price of a new set is a minor investment to make.

Once the fan and heatsink have been cleaned and thoroughly dried, we are going to replace the thermal paste. Unless you have done this within the last six months, the thermal paste is probably dried out and crusty. Dried out crusty thermal paste does not do the job and can be a real danger if it creates hot spots between the CPU and heat sink.
Be especially alert to the color of the thermal paste when you pop off the heat sink and fan. Brown and cracked thermal paste that looks like dried up mud from a dried up puddle is not a good sign! It indicates you have had an overheat problem and the fan and heatsink were either clogged with dust and not working right or it was not mounted right and making contact.

Wipe off any residue of old thermal paste with an alcohol wipe.
Apply a THIN layer of new paste by putting a small dab in the middle of the CPU and spreading out with a straight piece of cardboard, like a matchbook cover, until you have an even layer that is almost transparent. The thermal paste is only filling any microscopic imperfections between the metal surfaces of the CPU and heatsink. These spaces are measured in microns so your paste does not have to be as thick as icing on a cake!
Gently place the heatsink and fan back on the CPU and wiggle it around to evenly spread the paste applying slight pressure. Pull it off and look to ensure that there is an even layer on both the CPU and the heatsink without any blank areas. If you need to do the spreading process again, do it and repeat the process until you see an even film with no holes on both surfaces. Clean up any excess that may have accumulated on the edges of the heatsink and CPU by carefully wiping away with a Q-Tip or piece of paper.

Once assured that your thermal paste is properly applied, it’s time to reattach the heatsink and fan to the clips. DO NOT FORCE or apply excessive pressure! Sometimes attaching the clips can be a real wrestling match so resist the urge to force it. There have been known problems with many motherboards where the flex in the strata of the pcb of the motherboard combined with the pressure of mounting the fan and heatsink have caused the board to either flex and crush one of the delicate pins on the back side, or crack the mobo! In either case, you end up with a dead mobo and a very big replacement bill.
Once the clips are properly attached, inspect closely with a bright light and your magnifying glass. It is possible to attach the clips and have the heatsink sitting cockeyed on the CPU not making full contact. Look at it from all angles to ensure you have it correctly seated and rock it a little to make sure it is correctly seated and secure.
Reconnect the fan wires from whence they came, once again being careful not to apply excessive pressure or force on the fan header plug on the motherboard. It is very easy to break this off or bend the pins, fatal error with no chance of recovery!

Step 6.

Hard drives and CD players

Depending on how many and the mounting racks in your case, you may have a stack of hard drives that fit close together. They are prone to accumulating a layer of dirt between and on them. The bottom side often has an open and exposed circuit board subject to the same dangers of a dust layer as the other boards in your machine.
If they look dirty, pull them out and brush thoroughly. Clean up any collections of dust in the hard drive enclosures. Hard drives generate a lot of heat and proper cooling and air flow are essential if you want them to last!

CD players, burners, and floppy drives are great collectors of dust.
Because they have an open door to the outside, and the fan in the back of the case is pulling air in through those openings, they can easily get packed solid.
Look at the openings on them for what can look like a growth of moss!
Short of disassembly for interior cleaning, not for the novice, your best bet is to lightly insert the soda straw hooked to your vacuum and suck out what you can.
All cd burners/players have a lock release hole on the front to release the tray. Insert a paperclip into the hole and gently slide open the tray.
If you can see, and easily get to the little round glass lens on the laser, wipe this clean with an alcohol wipe or optical cleaner. A thin film of dirt on this lens is often the reason a cd player/burner won’t work right or acts up.
If the tray slides hard and you can see the little tracks and gears that move it and they have gunk or what appears to be dried out grease on them, try lubricating with a little WD40 and working it back and forth. As long as you are here, it can be a worthwhile effort eliminating that balky cd tray that takes forever to open or frequently gets stuck.

Step 7.

Putting things back together.
Now that you have successfully brushed and sucked everything spanky clean again, it’s time to put it all back together.
DON’T FORCE ANYTHING!
Slipping a card back into a PCI slot does require a little pressure and wiggling but resist the urge to lay into it hard! Note that a hammer is not on the tools list!
Nothing in there requires a lot of force to push it back in.
If a plug or connector does not snap in easily, pull it back out and look at it.
You may well have bent a pin with a slight misalignment.
Is it facing the right way?
Almost all plugs are designed to fit one way and one way only. It is often hard to see unless you inspect closely and match up the shapes. You can inadvertently force them on backwards sometimes with a little too much force.
Look at it once it is on again!
Particularly with a few of those long connectors with multiple pins, it is quite possible to misalign the plug by one pin and still have it fit! I recently did just that and with my poor eyesight had to look really closely with bright light to see it.

I once spent two days and almost chucked a good hard drive until I found one bent pin, in all those little pins, on an IDE connector. Don’t be afraid to use a big magnifying glass and bright light to inspect things closely, especially if it didn’t feel quite right when it snapped in or looks a little cockeyed.

Step 8.

Check all plugs and connectors!

I think just about all of us who have dabbled inside the case have been stumped more than once by a plug or connector that just didn’t connect solidly or got knocked loose while doing something else.
The last step before you close the case it to inspect, push, and wiggle every plug and connector, in particular your hard drive connectors, and make sure each feels tight and does not wiggle around or feel sloppy. One loose connector can ruin your day or give you an intermittent problem, that comes and goes, that you will chase for months!

Make sure your wiring harness and connections are secure and out of the way of fans.
An unsecured tangle of wires flopping around loose in the case can spell trouble if one of those spare Molex connectors happens to get snagged in a fan!
Best to gather your wiring harness into a nice neat compact bundle and tie with small wire ties. This helps with better air flow through the case and cooling.

Step 9.

Hook it up, Fire it up

Put the cover back on and move the machine back in place.
BEFORE you plug in the power wire, reconnect your mouse, monitor, and all other external connections. Check each one the same as you did the connectors inside the case.

The last step is to plug in the power cord, say a small prayer, and push the start button.
If all went well, your monitor will flicker to life and the quiet hum of fans spinning up will greet you followed shortly by the click of hard drives and a boot screen.

For those of you who may have been intimidated by all this and scared silly to open that case…
It’s really not all that hard or scary. Once you have done it for the first time, it will be easy to get over your fears and the next time around will be a snap.

Still unsure of yourself and not willing to risk it?
It may be worth your while, and money, to find a local computer shop and spend the bucks to have them clean it. The small price you pay is a good investment which will be far cheaper in the long run than the consequences of not cleaning your machine….
Smoke, fire, DOA…

PeteF
04-02-2006, 06:48 PM
part 3

Step 5.

CPU fan and heatsink
.......Once the fan and heatsink have been cleaned and thoroughly dried, we are going to replace the thermal paste. Unless you have done this within the last six months, the thermal paste is probably dried out and crusty. Dried out crusty thermal paste does not do the job and can be a real danger if it creates hot spots between the CPU and heat sink.


Question:
Once the thermal paste is applied correctly as outlined in your
post, how often or under what conditions do you feel it needs
to be reapplied? Are you saying to do this every 6 months?

---pete---

dbarrow
04-03-2006, 01:26 PM
I am often amazed at the condition of the thermal paste.
When I took daughter's machine apart to RMA the mobo, the six month old layer of Arctic Silver didn't look that good.
It has a front mounted temp display in the case and never showed signs of heating up but still....

Almost all new mobos come with temp monitoring software and alarms, usually an active service running in your systray.
It's a good idea to know what the temp range is for your CPU (look up by model on Intel or AMD site) and be alert to any sudden changes.

For older machines, there are various free utility apps that will do the same. Otherwise, you have to look in your System Info.

Ray Adams ATI Tray Tool includes a temp display in the systray for GPU and interior case temp sensors. Maybe he will include the CPU as well.

There are third party drive bay display mounts you can buy as well, usually with some fan controls on them, if you want to be able to look at the temp on the front of the case.

The Prescott (Preshott) problem was detailed in an archived post (if Adam can import them back)
I concluded I won't run one of them without water cooling.

As the newer lines of CPUs have "Thermal Throttling", sluggish performance is often a sign that it has engaged to protect the CPU by cutting speed of the CPU in half.
I have encountered people with this problem and it traced back to thermal paste/ heat sink problems.

When it comes to cleaning...
You really have to pop off the CPU fan and heatsink in order to clean it well so you will have to remove it from the CPU. Anytime you remove it, it requires a redo of the thermal paste. This ten minute task is worth the effort and will save you time and trouble down the line.
Unless your case stays really clean, the CPU heatsink will look pretty crusty in six months and require cleaning.
So ... if you clean spring and fall ... yes, six month intervals.

dbarrow
04-03-2006, 04:39 PM
Oh, forgot to mention, I have seen posts in various forums about Arctic Silver and AMD where it is NOT recommended as the suction created between the thermal paste and the CPU can cause damage when removing. In the 'cool' state, it is like cement!

It is HIGHLY recommended that prior to removing the heat sink, run the machine for at least a half hour to heat up the CPU and thermal paste .. so it does not act like Super glue... and to TWIST the heat sink back and forth BEFORE attempting to pull up to remove and break the seal. Failure to do this can cause damage or break the mobo in the area of the CPU mount.

If it falls off as soon as you release the clamps, you do need to redo the thermal paste!

Recommended cleaner before applying new paste is Brake Clean or acetone based cleaner like Gum Cutter 2+2.
It is important to remove any traces of old paste before applying new and to follow mnfr. directions closely.

PeteF
04-03-2006, 05:54 PM
I have encountered people with this problem and it traced back to thermal paste/ heat sink problems.

When it comes to cleaning...
You really have to pop off the CPU fan and heatsink in order to clean it well so you will have to remove it from the CPU. Anytime you remove it, it requires a redo of the thermal paste. This ten minute task is worth the effort and will save you time and trouble down the line.
Unless your case stays really clean, the CPU heatsink will look pretty crusty in six months and require cleaning.
So ... if you clean spring and fall ... yes, six month intervals.

Six month intervals seem a bit extreme for my own liking but a good
compromise would be to do once and then monitor & record the CPU
temperature and the ambient room temperature. Then use those
figures as a baseline as to what is "normal" for your PC.

The thermal paste has one purpose and that is to transfer heat from
the CPU to the heat sink. So now the question is... Where is the CPU
temperature measured at? Is it internal to the processor? I assume it
is and therefore, we can monitor CPU temperature for any indication
of the CPU running at hotter than "normal" temperature. Some monitoring
apps allow you to set an alarm if the temp rises over a pre-set threshold.
That could be your "Clean me" alarm.

Good topic here! :)

---pete---

dbarrow
04-03-2006, 06:27 PM
All newer CPUs have an internal temp sensor.

The important thing is knowing the correct operating range for your CPU and the 'thermal limit' threshold where it starts to throttle.
This is easily obtained for Intel CPUs by looking up the thermal spec on the Intel site.

If your 'monitor' has alarm limits, and most do, set them just below this point.

My Abit mobo will sound a most annoying siren noise if the alarm limit is reached. Can't miss it! Although, with water cooling, it runs about 20 above room temp no matter how hard I push it.

dbarrow
04-02-2007, 07:49 PM
Bump!
It is April and time for annual spring cleaning.

I just spent an hour unclogging my vid card fan and sucking ten pounds of garp out of mine.

Tortanick
04-04-2007, 09:07 AM
And... can anybody explain where 2oz of water vanishes to in a closed and sealed water cooling system? I have yet to figure this one out as it don't leak anywhere!

When you're computer is turned off the water cools, as it cools it contracts thus taking up less space than when its warm leaving a 2oz empty space.