Thermaltake CL-P0257 Blue Orb II CPU Cooler

[Pi rules]

I'm looking for a CPU cooler (again) because my computer overheated yesterday during 90 degree weather. I know it's a bit warm, but I would still like my CPU to be kept cooler and the noise stock 775 fans make at their top speeds is really annoying. I kind of gave up on the other Arctic Cooling one because I read a review saying that it didn't cool the voltage regulators enough and that the fins were too close together.

I found the Thermaltake CL-P0257 Blue Orb II CPU cooler (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835106069) at Newegg on sale for $41.99 + free shipping. It's more than I wanted to spend, but it seems like one of the better CPU coolers out there. It's specs say 17 dBA with 77.85 cfm (somehow), but it's a bit heavy at 869 grams. Would the support that comes with it be enough in case my computer is bumped or moved around a bit? I often have to move it a little to look inside and arrange cables and other things, so I don't want to pull the thing out of the motherboard.

[dbarrow]

What CPU are you running?
Presshots are right on the edge of ability of any aftermarket air cooler to handle. While Thermaltake does make some of the best, even some of them (at even higher prices) still fail to do the job.

Next, is the thermal paste migration problem.
Unfortunately lost in the archive migration is a long thread dealing with my experience with a Presshot in my current machine. Despite a fancy "heat pipe" gigantic air cooler from Thermaltake, it kept breaking the point (about 155 F) where even Arctic Silver migrated from the center of the CPU leaving a dime size blank spot over the core of the CPU. Once that happens, the only cure is to remove the thermal paste and redo only to have it happen each time you break the threshold. This point is below the "thermal protection throttle" of the CPU and will become evident as the CPU temps just won't come down after it happens. The only way to see this is pull the CPU and examine for a round blank spot in the middle of the CPU and cooler surfaces where the paste has migrated.

Ever since dealing with that, I have become a Thermaltake "Big Water" convert. Water is quiet, easy to install, and handles these mini blow torches even with extreme overclocking. Son's new box is water cooled as well.
I wouldn't build a box without one if you intend to work it hard or OC it the least little bit.

Dual core CPUs have tamed some of the heat problem but any OC of them puts you right back in the same ballpark with up to 300W heat output. There are a few nifty "all in one" water cooling solutions out there that are much smaller and work as well (without all the plumbing) but they do come at a higher price. At least, with the hose and radiator type, you can always add GPU vid card cooling blocks and Northbridge blocks if you later need them as well. You can even go completely silent if you want by running the water through an even larger reservior, like a fish tank....

The Thermaltake H bracket mounting system (most of them use the same one) is a royal PITA to assemble with the long bolts and nuts but once in place, you will seldom if ever have to take it apart again. It does support the weight for a verticle mount mobo but can flex the board so be careful. Just over finger tight will start to flex the pcb on the board and a wrench could torque it into cracking.

[Pi rules]

I wish I had the money for a water cooling system, but I don't think I do. :(
Although, now that I think about it, this will cost $40, and if I buy a fan controller, that will be another $30+, but I still don't think I can afford the Thermaltake Big Water. Are there any cheap but effective ones? I've seen some cheaper ones, but they don't work very well.

I read that it isn't very easy to install, but anything's better than my stock fan @ nearly 3000 rpms only keeping the CPU at the upper 40s nearly idle. It is warm today, but that sound is very annoying. That Thermaltake is rated at 77 cfms at only 17 dBA. I'm not quite sure how with only a 120 mm fan.

[Dudeking]

Best fan out there is the Big Typhoon.
http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Cooler/Retail/cl-p0114/cl-p0114.asp

6 Heatpipes, its a bit big (12CM fan), but it more than does the job.
This fan will out perform the cheap, shi**y water coolers.

[Pi rules]

It's $20 more + shipping. Less cfms since less rpms, but I'm sure it wouldn't be as noisy. Tough choice.
Thanks for the suggestion. :wave:

I just read the reviews for the blue orb, one says:
M-ManLA[/I]]My CPU idles about 19-23 degrees C and loads about 35-40C.
That's a really good idle temp, but the case probably has better cooling than mine.

[Dudeking]

I hurd about it here,
http://overclocker.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=76

Read the 7th post down, He say's his load temp is less than 30:evil:

[Pi rules]

I just got it installed (not very hard like many reviews said). It was kind of annoying taking the mobo out of the case, unplugging and disconnecting everything, etc. But, right now its running anywhere from just over 1100 rpms to 1300 rpms with temps ranging from the lower to upper 30s. I saw it hit 42 C once. I used ArcticSilver 5 (too much I think), but it didn't "burn-in" yet, so I should get better results soon. :)

I'm not sure if it is 17 dBA, but it is more quiet than the stock fan. I'm running Super Pi to 4 million digits and my highest CPU temp was 44 C. (edit - I got it to 48 running Super Pi to 8 million right after the 4 million, but it's hot and I would not have dared run this with the stock fan with today's weather)

However, it significantly raises my case temp (it is a hot day), so I'll have to see what I can do about that. Any suggestions? I have 2 front intake fans, one side intake (should I try exhaust), and a rear & top fan for exhaust. The CPU fan blows down on the motherboard btw.

Also, does anyone know what program I can use to make the fan spin faster? I don't mind a little extra noise for more cooling.

[dbarrow]

Is the fan wired to a controller/sensor or does it plug directly to the CPU fan header on the mobo and is controlled by that?

Can you connect it directly to a 12v rail for full power all the time?

[Pi rules]

Directly into the motherboard. Good point about the 12v rail, but I'm not sure if it could reach that far, but I do have an adapter that will convert 3-pin to molex that I could maybe try. I'll just have to remember to turn off the shut down if CPU fan not on feature in CMOS Setup. ;)

Thanks, I might try it later; I didn't think of that. :)

Edit: I'm not quite sure why, but I forgot that I could just disable CPU Smart Fan in CMOS Setup. I really need to get some sleep now.