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dbarrow
12-12-2006, 05:35 PM
jcampi asks:
"The main thing that concerns me is installing the mobo and seating the cpu. This actually makes me nervous."

What say you all?

I kind of prefer mounting the CPU and heatsink/fan on the mobo before mounting the mobo in the case.
As this can sometimes be a difficult task, it becomes all the more difficult when having to do it in the case with shadows and stuff in the way.
Out of the case, you can lay the mobo on the foam pad that comes in the box and have plenty of light to see what you are doing. It's much easier to tell if everything is flat and properly mated whereas, in the case, you can't tell if it's cocked or not.

As for those foam thermal pads.... I would rather invest in Arctic Silver and do it right from the start.

Prior to doing this, position the mounting studs for the mobo and cinch them down. If you don't tighten them securely in the case, trying to remove screws often unscrews the stud instead should you have to remove the mobo. Make sure all studs correctly match up to the mounting holes in the mobo and all are present.

The next most difficult thing I always find is getting the stuff on the back panel of the mobo to line up with the face plate and those SHARP little spring tabs that often have to be lifted into correct position with a screwdriver tip.
Not to mention, if the mobo comes with a face plate, you have to remove the one in the case and replace with that one so the external connectors line up. Pushing the mobo into the faceplate to get the studs to line up with the holes is always a challenge.

If the wires from the case are long enough, connecting the power switches and LED leads to the mobo before placing it in the case is easier. Seeing those tiny pins once the mobo is resting in the bottom of the case isn't easy without a bright light and magnifying lens. It's so easy to miscount by one pin...
It may also be helpful to connect the SATA and/or IDE cables to the mobo just before sliding it in as they can sometimes be annoying as well.

In winter, with low humidity, a wrist strap is required!
Ground your wrist strap to the case and ground the case to the ground on an extension cord plugged into the nearest wall outlet. Once you remove any parts from their anti-static bag, they are vulnerable. This is not the time to be wearing a wool sweater!

Worries aside, slapping the parts together is a half hour job at most! Making them work... that's another story!

jcampi
12-12-2006, 06:34 PM
I guess this is common sense to you after performing so many builds. I would not even have thought of it. It certainly sounds like mounting the cpu on the mobo before installing the mobo in the case is the way to go.

photolady
12-23-2006, 04:54 PM
Just my opinion. But I always build outside the box (case) first. Same opinion on those pads, Artic Silver is best.

mylanta
12-23-2006, 08:12 PM
Me too and test the board, cpu and memory outside the box with psu to make sure you post because if you don't, there is no sense going any further.
Oh and for the record, I have never once used any type of wristband.

photolady
12-23-2006, 08:16 PM
What's a wristband? LOL

jcampi
12-23-2006, 10:33 PM
Me too and test the board, cpu and memory outside the box with psu to make sure you post because if you don't, there is no sense going any further.
Oh and for the record, I have never once used any type of wristband.

What do you use to test the mobo and components before installing it in the case?

mylanta
12-24-2006, 01:13 AM
Hook it all up and then short the pw or sw jumper with a screwdriver

PeteF
12-24-2006, 02:18 AM
jcampi asks:
"The main thing that concerns me is installing the mobo and seating the cpu. This actually makes me nervous."


Years ago, I purchased a Mobo that came delivered with CPU
and memory preinstalled and tested. All I had to do was install it
into the case. For the first time PC builder, this might be the best
way to go. Question is, does anyone know of a parts supplier that
will pre-install the CPU and memory and pretest it for you?

---pete---

jcampi
12-24-2006, 09:21 AM
Hook it all up and then short the pw or sw jumper with a screwdriver

Translation Please. PW, SW jumper?

mylanta
12-24-2006, 10:41 AM
That's the jumper or pins that connect to the power button to turn pc on by way of a wire that has pw or or sw written on it. Look up any mobo manual online and look for ...go here as this is a board I am using for most of my custom builds and here it is called simply "on/off" but scroll down to "Front panel header"
and you will see the front panel jumpers that you connect for power button, hdd light, power light on case etc....read through whole manual as you won't see one with Intel as they haven't included manuals for years, but most other makers do and this will show you order of install. Where the Athlon cpu shows the triangles Intel cpu's do also but the Intel dual cores and D Celerons have a little slots on each side you line up that makes putting the cpu in real easy.
ftp://ftp.biostar-usa.com/manuals/TFORCE%20550/TFORCE550manual.pdf

jcampi
12-31-2006, 01:50 PM
Thanks for all of the help guys. I bought the case, hard drive, floppy and OS. I'll have to wait several weeks, but I've started to shop for the mobo. This is confusing to me. I'm set on an Intel Core 2 Duo chip. I've researched the Biostar mobo at the link below:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813138037
Any thoughts? The hard drive I bought is a WD SATA drive. Will this work with SATA2? Reviewed seem a little sketchy on the mobo. I might also take a look at some ASUS and Intel boards. I'd like to go with a mobo that sells for about $100, but I'm flexible.

jcampi
12-31-2006, 02:01 PM
Also found the Intel mobo below at newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813121048R
This one also seems like a nice board:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813121016R

Seems like some of the reviews for Intel boards suggest they aren't as easy for a DIY person. Overclocking also seems like an issue, but I don't know if I plan to overclock anyway.

mylanta
12-31-2006, 02:06 PM
Thanks for all of the help guys. I bought the case, hard drive, floppy and OS. I'll have to wait several weeks, but I've started to shop for the mobo. This is confusing to me. I'm set on an Intel Core 2 Duo chip. I've researched the Biostar mobo at the link below:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813138037
Any thoughts? The hard drive I bought is a WD SATA drive. Will this work with SATA2? Reviewed seem a little sketchy on the mobo. I might also take a look at some ASUS and Intel boards. I'd like to go with a mobo that sells for about $100, but I'm flexible.

Nice board...this is the one I have been using and have done 5 flawless builds with...unless you need 4 more gig of ram (which XP would never see anyway), save the $.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813138035

mylanta
12-31-2006, 02:10 PM
Also found the Intel mobo below at newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813121048R
This one also seems like a nice board:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813121016R

Seems like some of the reviews for Intel boards suggest they aren't as easy for a DIY person. Overclocking also seems like an issue, but I don't know if I plan to overclock anyway.

Do not buy the first one as it has no software, no IO shield(and this one you absolutely need), and no manual...you will need cables too which a retail kit would have.

The second one is for a real enthusiast. I also think it worthwhile to mention Intel will not let you overclock any boards, and where I am negative on that anyway, you should have the option as everyone says these chips are highly clockable.

jcampi
12-31-2006, 02:17 PM
This one is only about $20 more and offers slots for 8GB of RAM. Think the $20 difference is worth it?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813138037

mylanta
12-31-2006, 02:37 PM
This one is only about $20 more and offers slots for 8GB of RAM. Think the $20 difference is worth it?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813138037

John let me respond in 2 ways:
1) If I thought it was worth it, why do I have the $21 cheaper board?
2) If you cannot afford 2 gb of ram, why is it you want to spend $21 more to have the capability of using 7 more gig you can less afford?

You don't do the things that would ever utilize more than 3 gb of ram John and most likely 2 is a bit much, however that said, you will want 2 for Vista where the Os is 16gb alone, and there 2 gb will make a bigger difference than in XP.

dbarrow
12-31-2006, 03:08 PM
965 vs 975 chipset ... which would be the better?

As for ram, you will only need 2 slots for 2x1g matched pair.
More than that is overkill.

jcampi
12-31-2006, 04:15 PM
Rich, I love your posts. Wisdom and truth. So it looks like the Biostar with 4GB of RAM (slots). I also like the idea of getting the manual and being able to over clock even if I don't plan on it. From your post I infer that I shouldn't look at OEM boxes as they don't include manuals or cables. BTW, I like your how frugal you are and get so much value from the hardware. This is a great help to me and helps to keep me from wasting $.